9. Iguanas

The history of iguanas as pets


Iguanas can make phenomenal pets. While you won't be required to give them long walks outside and potty training will not be an issue that gets you out of bed at 3 a.m., nevertheless there is a host of other concerns pertaining specifically to caring for iguanas responsibly.

The three major care areas are going to be food, shelter, and taking care of their physical needs. With proper, attentive care, your iguana may even live up to 20 years.

Once you purchase your pet iguana from the pet store, you will need some supplies, which will be listed below in the care directions.

The housing situation. Most iguanas live out their happy lives in a terrarium. When purchasing a terrarium for your pet you should make sure that it will be big enough to give your iguana room to move and comfortably fit any supplies that need to be placed in the cage with him. You would not want to sit in a small confined space for the remainder of your life, so do not assume that your iguana wants this kind of treatment either. Bear in mind that your iguana will grow. You need to place things on the floor of the terrarium to cover the bottom of the glass. Whatever you place down there will have to be washed or replaced on a regular basis. Iguana feces should be removed daily. Make sure that, whatever you choose to place on the floor of the terrarium, it cannot be eaten by your iguana.

Let the sun shine in.Iguanas love the sunlight, so you are going to want to make sure that you do not deprive your new family friend. One of an iguana's favorite activities is to climb on logs and enjoy the shining sun. If your tank is not in an area with lots of sunlight, you may want to move it. If moving it is not an option, you can purchase an artificial light source from the pet store. Talk to your vet about purchasing an artificial UV light anyway, since iguanas benefit from exposure to ultraviolet B. You can also purchase logs and wood for your iguana to climb on.

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For other members of the family Iguanidae, see Iguanidae. For other uses, see Iguana (disambiguation).
Iguana

Green Iguana Iguana iguana
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Sauropsida
Order: Squamata
Suborder: Iguania
Family: Iguanidae
Genus: Iguana
Laurenti, 1768
Species
• Lesser Antillean Iguana, I. delicatissima
• Green Iguana, I. iguana
Iguana is a herbivorous genus of lizard native to tropical areas of Central and South America and the Caribbean. The genus was first described in 1768 by Austrian naturalist Josephus Nicolaus Laurenti in his book Specimen Medicum, Exhibens Synopsin Reptilium Emendatam cum Experimentis circa Venena. Two species are included in the genus Iguana: the Green Iguana, which is widespread throughout its range and a popular pet, and the Lesser Antillean Iguana, which is endemic to the Lesser Antilles and endangered due to habitat destruction.
The word "iguana" is derived from a Spanish form of the original Taino name for the species "Iwana
Contents
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• 1 Anatomy and physiology
• 2 Gallery
• 3 References
• 4 Bibliography
Anatomy and physiology
The two species of lizard within the genus Iguana possess a dewlap, a row of spines running down their back to their tail, and a third "eye" on their head. This eye is known as the parietal eye, visible as a pale scale on the top of the head. Behind their neck are small scales which resemble spikes, known as tuberculate scales. These scales may be a variety of colors and are not always visible from close distances. They have a large round scale on their cheek known as a subtympanic shield.
Iguanas have excellent vision and can see shapes, shadows, colors and movement at long distances. Iguanas use their eyes to navigate through crowded forests, as well as for finding food. They use visual signals to communicate with other members of the same species.
The tympanum is the iguana's ear drum, and is located above the subtympanic shield and behind the eye. Iguanas are often hard to spot, as they tend to blend into their surroundings. Their scale colors are a mode of hiding from larger predators.
Male iguanas, as well as other male members of the order Squamata, have two hemipenes.
Gallery
•

Green iguana at St. Thomas
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Another green iguana (Iguana iguana)
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Green Iguana Iguana iguana from the island of St. Thomas
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A lesser Antillean iguana in the wild in Dominica.
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Cayman Iguana
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Photo taken at La Manzanilla, Jalisco, Mexico at an environmental reserve.

Care and Feeding of Iguanas
March 19, 2011 By Christine Hancock 129 Comments
Iguanas are one of the most popular reptiles purchased from pet shops today. This animal can grow anywhere from 4-6 feet in length, reaching a maximum weight of 10-15 pounds. On average, they live 12-15 years in captivity, however they can live up to 20 years if taken care of properly. Iguanas come from a hot and humid environment, therefore, they are more active during daylight hours. They can become territorial and will not hesitate to use their strong and powerful jaws, nails, or tail.
Indoor Housing
A juvenile iguana can reside in a 30-50 gallon aquarium; however, their rapid growth will cause them to outgrow this enclosure within a few months. Enclosures come in many different sizes, shapes, and styles and are made out of wood, glass, or plexiglass. The substrate should be easy to clean to help you out. Newspaper works well and is most cost efficient, however, artificial grass, indoor-outdoor carpeting, or linoleum are excellent choices as well. Avoid sand, soil, and bark, as these substrates can lead to obstruction or impaction if your pet ingests them. Shallow food and water dishes should be provided, and thoroughly cleaned and disinfected at least twice a week. It is also important to provide your iguana with climbing materials such as branches, pieces of bark, rocks, broad limbs, or drift wood.
Water
Iguanas need water to survive and should have it readily available. Iguanas obtain most of their water intake through the plant matter they consume, however, some iguanas enjoy drinking out of water dishes, or lapping water off leaves or wood in the cage. Misting your iguana and it’s environment daily will help keep it hydrated and provide it water droplets to drink. Some iguanas who are provided water dishes may train themselves to eliminate in their water. Their dishes need to be regularly and thoroughly cleaned and disinfected to prevent internal bacterial infections.
Bathing your iguana is another good way for your friend to obtain water, and is a good habit to get your lizard use to. Bathing should be offered in shallow, lukewarm water, 2-3 times weekly. Always supervise your iguana to prevent any accidents. Remember, not all iguanas enjoy bath time. Some will swim around and enjoy it, others will panic.
Outdoor Sunlight
Iguanas need to be provided with exposure to natural sunlight for at least 5-10 hours per week. When possible, iguanas should spend daylight hours outside in a sunny location. When choosing an outdoor cage for your pet, a couple of things should be kept in mind. No wild animals, or cats or dogs, should be able to break into the cage, and your pet should not be able to escape. A wire mesh cage with a sturdy frame works well. Glass should be avoided at all costs as the glass can develop lethal temperatures even on cool days. Of course, don’t forget to provide food and water to your little friend in it’s outdoor enclosure.
Handling
Iguanas need frequent and regular handling to help tame them. Iguanas can learn to show affection to those who own them and handle them frequently. Juveniles should be held at least 2-3 times daily for approximately fifteen minutes. Stroke the back and neck while holding, and get your iguana accustomed to picking them up and handling them. IGUANAS CAN BE TERRITORIAL AND AGGRESSIVE BY NATURE. ALWAYS USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN HANDLING ANY IGUANA.
Feeding
Iguanas are herbivores and should only be offered a variety of fruits and vegetables. There is ample information available that states iguanas should be fed protein, however, protein in the diet can lead to kidney failure, metabolic bone disease, and eventually death if fed over the years. The bulk of the diet should be compromised of dark, leafy green vegetables, such as, collard greens, mustard greens, parsley, dandelion greens, escarole, spinach, and kale. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided as it offers no nutritional value and iguanas can become hooked on it, refusing to eat other foods. Other vegetables that are good to offer include green beans, green peppers, frozen mixed vegetables, squash, and fruits, such as, bananas, apples, mangos, papaya. Iguanas should be fed on a daily basis, after their lights have been turned on and the iguana has had a chance to warm up.
Lighting and Heating
Temperature plays an important role to your iguana’s long term and overall health. Iguanas are cold blooded and do not possess the ability to regulate internal temperatures, so they rely on their environment. Iguanas regulate their body temperature by basking in temperatures above 85 degrees, sometimes as high as 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Daytime temperatures should range between 85-95 degrees with a basking point of 110-115 degrees. Nighttime temperatures should not drop below 70-75 degrees. Iguanas should be provided fourteen hours of daylight, and ten hours of night light.
So how do I achieve these heat requirements? There are many products on the market today. The simplest is a basking light. A 60-100 watt incandescent bulb is a radiant source of heat, and is adequate since they are basking animals. An Ultraviolet light, such as Vita-Lite or Duro-Test, available at your local pet store, helps provide heat and aids in the conversion of vitamin D. A UVB fluorescent tube light can also be provided. Heat pads, hot rocks, and heating tape are sold at most pet shops, however, observe extreme caution when using these products. These products have potential to malfunction, causing extreme burns to your iguana, that can potentially prove fatal. Also, these products don’t provide the adequate heat necessary for the required temperature for your iguana.
Common Problems
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Metabolic bone disease describes most disorders that cause a weakening of the bones or impaired functioning of the body’s organs. It is caused by an imbalance of calcium, phosphorous, and vitamin D3. Proper diet and temperature ranges will help prevent MBD. Symptoms of this disease include swelling of the lower jaw, curvature in the tail or back (‘S’ shaped), the lower jaw may be smaller than the upper jaw, and radiographs will show thin, brittle, curved bone structure. Metabolic bone disease is best avoided with proper diet and correct temperature ranges in the iguanas environment
Kidney Failure
Kidney disease is common in captive iguanas due to poor diet and lack of water or humidity. External signs are anorexia, weight loss, swollen abdomen, dehydration, loss of muscle tone, and eventually lack of elimination. However, your iguana may not show any signs, and act healthy even two weeks before kidney disease turns fatal. Your veterinarian can check blood levels of the phosphorous and calcium in your iguana to try to prevent kidney failure. If caught early enough, treatment would consist of diet and environment improvements. Fed properly on a plant-based diet, access to water and frequent misting helps prevent kidney failure.
Parasites
Iguanas are susceptible to both internal and external parasites. A parasite is an organism that lives in or on another organism. Internal parasites are more difficult to diagnose. They produce microscopic eggs which pass through your iguanas feces. Fecal exams should be performed routinely for newly acquired reptiles. The specimen provided should be fresh, within 24 hours, and needs to be refrigerated to prevent fecal matter from drying out. A negative finding on a fecal exam means, NO PARASITES DETECTED IN THE SAMPLE SUBMITTED. It does not necessarily mean your reptile is free of parasites. It is a good idea to test a few times with negative results in order to ensure your iguana is without parasites.
External Parasites
Mites are blood sucking organisms that may be bright red, black or dried blood in color. Generally they can be found roaming the body, tucked under the edges of scale around the eyes, ears, or tympanic membrane. Mites are microscopically small in most cases and can be difficult to get rid of. Mite treatments sold at pet shops are generally ineffective. There is no easy way to rid mites of your reptile and its environment. The environment and reptile both must be thoroughly treated. Remove all substrate and treat all items in the enclosure. Boil rocks, bake wood, and bleach bowls and the cage. The reptile must be soaked in warm water with mild soap. Any further problems should be reported to your veterinarian.